Taking Paris by night

For our port stop in Les Andelys, France, we had signed up pre-cruise for the included tour option called Chateau Gaillard Walking Tour. This one hour and thirty minute walking tour is classified as demanding. Make sure you always read the entire tour description as not every included tour is an "easy" tour. We heard of many passengers opting out referencing the state of the landmark and the uneven terrain. We too opted not to attend not only for the effort of being a walking tour but also because Viking announced that despite being an included tour, that this tour would not have a leisure group due to the terrain.

Here is the description:

Explore one of the most fantastic fortresses of Normandy while admiring sweeping views of the Seine as it winds its way through the countryside. You will accompany your Program Director to the remarkable Chateau Gaillard, which seems to beckon from atop its high hill. The stronghold was built in the 12th century by Richard the Lionheart of England, who was also Duke of Normandy. His structure is considered the most dramatic sight anywhere along the Seine between the coast and Paris. The strongest and most magnificent castle of its age, it guarded the Seine River Valley and was the key structure in a vast system that defended Normandy during the Wars of Religion. It was also of critical importance in Richard's campaigns against France. You will tour the exterior of this fine example of medieval siege warfare construction, considered invincible for as long as Richard lived. 

For our brief time in Le Pecq, we had signed up pre-cruise for the included tour option called Napoleon's Chateau De Malmaison. This three hour tour (I can never say that phrase without hearing the Gilligan's Island theme song in my head), is classified as moderate. We chose to skip this tour in favor of resting on board until our evening tour plans.

Here is the description:

Visit the historic chateau where Napoleon Bonaparte spent his final days in France. Along with the Tuileries, this elegant manor house, purchased by the emperor's wife, Josephine, in 1799, served as the seat of Napoleon's French government from 1800 to 1802. After the couple's divorce, she collected an annual pension of 5 million francs and kept the house, which she called home until her death in 1814. The emperor returned the following year after his defeat at Waterloo and received news of his exile to the island of Saint Helena. Admire the courtyards and see Josephine's beloved music room and library. Visit her opulent chambers and salon, and view the emperor's bedroom and the stunning mahogany decor of his study with its original furnishings. Enjoy free time here before returning to your ship.

Please enjoy this brief interlude from tour talk to see what was offered on board for breakfast and lunch on our last day - 

French toast for breakfast

Lunch - This was billed as a sort of vegetable soup but looked more like the chef was using up all of the voyage's vegetable peelings stuck in a broth. Was just as tough and awkward to eat as it sounds.

Typical hot dog with coleslaw and fries. I requested that the hot dog be off the bun. Sometimes you just don't want to deal with wet buns.

Now back to your regularly scheduled tour talk.

On the last full day of the cruise, our ship stayed in Le Pecq from 5:00AM until 1:45PM when the ship sailed back to Paris to dock until we disembarked the next morning. The last shore excursion, paid or otherwise, that we participated in was called Paris Cruise By Night. This 1 1/2 hour tour departed at 9:45PM and is listed as easy. This tour cost $105 per person.

Here is the description:

See Paris in all its illuminated glory as you drift along the Seine River on a leisurely night cruise. Board your open-air vessel and set sail to view the city's famous monuments, such as the Louvre, the Musee D'Orsay, the Grand Palais and the imposing Conciergerie-once part of the Palais de la Cite and a former courthouse and prison that housed Marie Antoinette. Your leisurely cruise is one of the most relaxing ways to see the sights along the Banks of the Seine River, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, including the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral, which is currently being restored after a fire ravaged the centuries-old building. Admire the illuminated bridges as you glide through the heart of the French capital awash in a glow of twinkling lights. At the tour's end, you will return to the dock and transfer back to your awaiting ship.

Viking defines "easy" as: Walking portions are generally over easy surfaces with few steps or inclines. Total time walking or standing is normally not longer than 1.5 hours. 

We did ask Mia onboard about the walking this excursion required and she told us that it was super easy because the bus drops you off right by the dock. Personally, I think whomever wrote the activity level descriptions left off the words "sets of" between "few" and "steps." To get from the street level where the bus drops you off, you have to walk across cobblestones and then make your way down at least a couple sets of stairs before you can walk up to where the scenic cruise boat is docked. This is all being maneuvered in the dark lit only by limited streetlamps and the guide's small flashlight at the front of the group. In addition, our guide was panicked that we had gotten to the dock with little time to spare and yelled at everyone to hurry up as he and his little flashlight rushed ahead. So yes, once you get on board the scenic cruise boat and find a seat, it's a nice easy activity level excursion. 

Thankfully our fellow passengers helped those of us who were mobility challenged make our way down the steps. Navigating in darkness on these stone steps that were not really lit since by nature, they led you under the street level, felt very treacherous and scary. The scenic cruise boat did at least have a wide relatively straight ramp to board. The boat featured an upstairs seating area, an enclosed seating area around a bar, and curved benches with backs style seating on the main open deck. Even if you needed to avoid stairs, you could at least still enjoy both an inside and outside view on the main level. 

One tip I'll share if you're planning to do this itinerary outside of the summer months, is to bring an extra layer or heavier jacket. Blankets were provided by the scenic cruise boat but it was bitterly windy and cold at night on the water in November. Several people opted to move inside to the less comfortable fixed in place seats just to get out of the wind. We did use our Vox Boxes to be able to hear the guide provided by the scenic cruise boat company. This guide was very passionate about the area but did occasionally go off on tangents and end up repeating some things when he'd lose his place in the recitation. 

We did visit many of the landmark highlights that come to mind when most people think of Paris. It can be a bit of a different perspective not only seeing them from the water but also in the dark. Unfortunately, not every building pointed out afforded the same view as driving through town looking at Christmas lights. We did briefly stop along the route to be passing by the Eiffel Tower while it ran its light show. If you wait until this evening to catch the light show, aim to get seats on the right side of this boat. Our left sided seat view was blocked by the covered stairwell that leads up to the top level. We were free to move about the boat during the ride if we felt stable enough to do so. It had also rained recently so several places were wet. Our guide was so fascinated with the recent Louvre break-in that he pointed out the balcony the criminals were reported to have gotten inside from repeatedly. 

On the bus ride back, our initial guide insisted on detouring so that we could pull up right in front of the Eiffel Tower at street level when the light show started again. Best view one could get from that vantage point was of the people on the street waiting to get their own photos and videos.

Here are some photos from the boat tour:

While I had hoped to have more reports to share from our booked shore excursions on this trip to help you, travel doesn't always go the way you planned. Best you can do is pivot, be open to things and ideas you may have never considered, and you might end up having the best unexpected experience of your life. Thank you all for reading about our time on the London, D-Day & Paris itinerary on the Viking Radgrid. 

Coming up next...how did we take to the Sky and the Ocean to get back home after this cruise? 

Eating on board ending the day with a special dinner

For the remainder of the cruise, we took it easy onboard relaxing in our cabin and sleeping in. The Aquavit Terrace became our go to place for breakfast. It served essentially the same menu but it opens for breakfast service about a half hour later than the restaurant and stayed open later in the morning. This was a great option for when we didn't have to rush to eat before a tour. The area on our ship had an outside area with tables and an indoor area with a few less tables. We always could find an inside table since by then the bulk of the passengers were on tour. There was some delay with dining there as they often only had one crew member working the area and they'd be running back and forth to the restaurant if a passenger ordered a hot dish item. Not having a tour to hurry off for and having been able to sleep in after fighting with sore joints, fatigue, and a cold made it worth having to wait some extra time for service.

Here is what we ate on board during the days in Rouen:

Substantial pancakes that managed to still be light and fluffy. I loved that this dish was served with the syrup and the fruit in their own separate dishes. It was great being able to control how much syrup was used and my fruit didn't get soggy sitting in the syrup.

Over medium eggs & a bagel with cream cheese on day 2 for breakfast:

Lunch in the restaurant started off with a simple mixed green and tomato salad:

My main dish was a steak sandwich. Feel free to ask the waiter to switch and swap from dishes. I asked to get french fries as my side that normally would have been with the hot dog menu choice. Since it was an item they had on hand anyway, there was no problem making the swap. 

Why there was a small dish of what looked like half melted butter and honey mustard sauce had a baby included with this dish, no one at the table had a clue. Several tables asked for ketchup instead and were brought these baby sized sealed jars. I found the jars adorable but wasteful given that they were discarded after one use since the seal was broken.

Dad couldn't resist ordering the banana split for dessert. Note the array of tiny ketchup jar lids lining the middle of the shared lunch table at the top of the photo.

I tried this chocolate mousse style dessert and chose to let Dad have the rest. Notice the extra inclusion of a pistachio crumble on the top for decoration.

Day 2's lunch was full of comfort food starting with a broth heavy soup:

And followed by a chicken quesadilla. The waiter insisted on bringing me another one when I told him how good it tasted.

And dessert:

Lunch on Les Andelys day:

I swapped the side for this monte cristo style sandwich for the sweet potato fries from another main dish.

A quick rundown of dinner from our second night in Rouen...

This main dish was way spicier than I expected. 

 ...and our night in Les Andelys

 

For dinner our first night in Rouen, the restaurant offered a themed meal called "Taste of Normandy." Described as a hearty French dinner, Viking kept passengers out of the restaurant until they were ready for the big reveal. The usual buffet counters were stacked with trays of regional food. There was a mix of help yourself as well as crew behind the counter to serve up as much as you wanted. They tried to do crowd control by calling up tables bit by bit after everyone had been seated. I swooped in for some pictures before the crowd descended.

There were various dishes that would have been served by course such as cheese slices and pate or the table full of individual dessert portions. With everything being out at the same time, everyone came back with plates piled high with a little of everything. All the passengers were readily encouraged to go back as much as they wanted to try something else or get more of something we ended up liking.

Started off with some sauteed shrimp and a cold beet salad. The beet salad was diced up to look like miniature Jello squares. I'm so proud of Dad for trying the beet salad!

My super white/beige plate held chicken, pork, fish, rice pilaf, and mashed potatoes. This may look like the plate of a picky eater but that's just what the bulk of the food looked like.

The food spread included a dish of what looked like individually wrapped long pieces of taffy. The maitre'd kept encouraging everyone to take some and try it. All of our table mates were trying to figure out what this squishy item could be. Many guessed it was some sort of candy or dessert and saved it for the end of their meal. We all had a roaring laugh when someone finally tried it and discovered that it was simply a thick butter meant for your bread with a fancier presentation than the usual wrapped individual pats of butter. Some of us were way too close to popping the whole thing in our mouths like candy!

Lunch at the beach

Our full day tour continues with a lunch stop on the way to Utah Beach at a family owned restaurant, Chez Arsene. All of the buses met up for lunch together so it was a full dining room. We all grabbed seats at shared tables and ended up enjoying a delicious meal with two other couples. Being a smaller ship, we often ran into the other couples throughout the rest of the cruise and got to chat even more.

The owner gave a brief history of their family restaurant and then launched into an explanation of the planned multi-course menu they served this afternoon. The restaurant was also part of a Bed and Breakfast called Domaine Utah Beach. Everything prepared for us today was sourced farm to table either by the family's own harvest or other farms local to the area. 

Everyone was served red wine and water but the option was given to request anything else to drink. I tried a sip of the wine but didn't like it. I stuck to drinking water until I accidentally grabbed the wrong clear pitcher pouring myself a glass of sparkling water by mistake. 

Our starter course was described as a salmon tartare but it also had a sweet marinade with pickled garnishes on top. I surprised myself with how much I liked this dish.

Our main course was a beef bourguignon cooked in a rich brown gravy with carrots and mushrooms. A healthy serving of rice completed the dish. This was such a hearty warm dish with everything cooked to just the right tenderness.

Our dessert course featured the sweet apples the area is known for turned into an apple pie seasoned crepe with a caramel sauce drizzle. Not being a big fan of apple pie, I found this to be way too sweet. Even Dad who loves to snack on apples found this to be too sweet as well.

Overall, we found the food to be a good representation of the local cuisine. We left feeling full from lunch and from the good company. We all headed back outside for some fresh air and to look around the grounds until it was time to get back on the bus.

Our next stop on the tour was to the Utah Beach Landing Museum. We were given free time to explore the museum and had the option to venture down onto Utah Beach itself.

There is a tradition of bringing up shells from the beach to be placed at the foot of this sign marking the entrance as a tribute to the soldiers.

Our final stop of the day was Sainte-Mere-Eglise to visit the Airborne Museum and to see the statue commemorating Pvt. John Steele, the paratrooper whose parachute got caught on the church steeple. The church and statue are across the street from the Airborne Museum. Pvt. Steele was left hanging there for several hours before he was captured and eventually escaped.

I was reading the signage in front of the church and admiring the barrage of pigeons lining the grounds when a woman who I thought was in our tour group stopped to talk to me in French about the pigeons. I used the limited French I'd been learning for this trip to reply that yes, there was an amazing amount of the beautiful birds. She either approved of my French or thought what I really said was amusing because she smiled and walked past where our group was holding down the curb waiting for the bus. Another lady in our group (in English) complimented the woman's outfit and was met with a nasty scowl before the local French woman walked away down the road. It's always a good idea when traveling to a foreign country to take the time to learn some of their language. If nothing else, it's always helpful to know how to ask where is the bathroom or when a sign posted reads "Do not use. Out of Order!"

The Airborne Museum is built as a series of buildings with themed exhibits made to look like aircraft hangers. Paved walkways connect the buildings so you can view the exhibits in order of the numbered buildings. It can take a little figuring out though to find your way if you don't want to visit every building.

The view of the church steeple sculpture from the museum grounds:

The informational displays have both a French and an English text.

This building was devoted to giving the visitor the experience of being on a plane full of paratroopers about to jump. There are multiple sensory experiences such as light play with some things in shadow, engine noise, officers yelling out orders, and talking between the soldiers. It is quite the immersive experience. There are warnings posted for those who are bothered by loud sounds and effects like strobe lighting. 

Fredericka briefly pointed out the German cemetery as we started our way back to the ship. Each of these tours were designed to include one cemetery visit. No one bothered to push for it when she suggested we simply drive by instead of stopping for a visit. I think everyone was ready to nap on the bus ride back. While we had been away on this tour all day, the Viking Radgrid sailed from Vernon to Rouen. The dock in Rouen required the bus to park at street level in an alley. We had to make our way down a dark steep crumbling tree covered stone staircase, walk about 100 yards to where another set of steps led us back onto the ship. Mia was waiting just inside the ship entrance and came rushing over when she saw me stop at the bottom of the second stairs to reach back and help Dad. She insisted on helping him walk down the stairs matching step for step. Once inside, Dad headed straight for our cabin while I answered Mia's questions about how well we handled the tour. She was saddened to hear that Dad couldn't do at least part of the path. Mia was also surprised to hear that Fredericka did not give any heads up about the shorter path option.

I  know with travel in Europe, sometimes you encounter older structures that don't offer features that allow disabled travelers to visit. However, I do think Viking could have done more knowing that visiting in November would mean traversing these centuries old surfaces to get in and out of the dock areas would be done in complete darkness. They have the control to know when a tour group is leaving and returning and definitely could have prepared more than 2 or 3 crew with small flashlights showing the way.

In case you didn't get enough food pictures earlier, here is the dinner we reported to as soon as we could drop our bags and freshen up in the cabin:

This was supposed to be like a mozzarella stick:

Pork tenderloin with stuffing, gravy, and mashed sweet potato:

Stuffed ravioli:

Croquembouche - I soon started to notice how much pistachio must be in the ship's inventory. They used pistachio crumbles to top most everything and not just dessert courses. Be advised if you are allergic to nuts as this was certainly not the normal garnish for my dessert.

As we headed to bed, I took a peek at my iPhone's health data for today. I'd say I earned all those cruise calories!